Delhi

A couple of weeks from returning from the south we embarked

on our month long adventure half a world away. We had applied

for our traveling visas for India while we were in the South

(after we had decided that the civil unrest going on in Bangkok

was too risky, and we canceled out planned trip to Thailand)

but they didn't arrive fast enough for us to make our flight from

NY to Dehli, so we flew to San Francisco to pick our visas up in

person to save the time it would have taken to mail them to us.

It was quick ant short, just enough time to pick up the visas and

make a last minute stop to REI for sweatshirts for the plane rides

and sweat handkerchiefs for when we get to India.

A cute memory was talking to the doorman while waiting to pick

up our visas. He was in his 70s and was outgoing and cheerful,

everybody that past by knew his name. When the we were finally

allowed to go in and pick up our visas they smiled and said that

we had just been given a gift to have chatted with this man, and we

agreed.

We then flew from CA to NY. Once in NY we had our first taste of

Indian culture as we arrived at the gate. No Line. Although the attendants

were only allowing passengers to enter the gate a few rows at a time,

all the other passengers were grouped around the gate squished and pushing.

It didn't matter that every body will get a turn to enter, it was still

a free for all mentality. Once on board the "fend for yourself" attitude

was apparent, the elderly Indian man sitting in front of our row

wouldn't let anybody put another bag in the same overhead

compartment as his laptop. No matter the gapping space around his

soul laptop he would take out your bag and put it in the aisle.

We were forced to place our carrions on the other side of the plane.

Frustrating. We were also on the last row so our seats didn't recline,

where everybody else's, including the row in front of us did. So our

space felt even more limited that usual. 14 hours later we landed.

We landed late at night, everybody in the airport no matter how big

or how small, if just one or many had to have a dolly to push around.

It was crowded and chaotic. A car from our hotel was waiting for us

the inside of the car smelled like exotic flowers, a strong contrast

to the sweat, dirt, and spices I was smelling in the air before I

got in. We arrived at our hotel and had to pass through a gate

where a gaurd had to check un the trunk and under the car

with a mirror. It was a bit unnerving.

Once inside the Imperial Hotel, it was so beautiful,

clean white marble and dark cherry wood. Doormen

dressed in bred and yellow silk robes and turbans.

Since we were going to India in the off season we were told we

needed to be extra careful where we stayed and what we ate.

That fewer places are willing to prepare and store food

to western hygienic standards during the summer. And

since we were going to more remote places in the Northern

parts of Ragistan we booked what would normally be more

expensive places to stay.

(the prices were really low because of the season so we were

able to do this). It was emotionally hard to experience and see

the dichotomy of our trip. We would tour through very poor parts

of town and pass by beggars during the day and then return to

such beautiful and comfortable hotels. I felt so limited and trapped.

I was amazed at the hotels but wished I could share the experience

with those I could see were living in such discomfort. I didn't need such

luxury and would have been fine with less if I could have felt safe

sanitary wise. It was hard to also see a culture where there wasnt

only clean water but trash blanketed the streets.

We would constantly see people just throwing their

wrappers and bottles on the ground when they were finished with

them. That was everyday life for them but it was also very hard to

take in. Women with babies would knock on the windows of your

car begging, but we were asked not to give them anything as they

were all working for pimps that would take most of what they collected

and the cities didnt want to support the pimps. But my heart

ached for those women and how trapped they were. Having

studied before we came as well as what I learned from our guides

India has come a long way from were it used to be but I also learned

how corrupt the government is and how much more the people

need and want to have.

I did appreciate how the more time I spent

in India the easier I took in the differences and was able

to SEE the people and perceive their strengths.

Jama Masjid Mosque in Old Delhi.

We toured the Mosque in the morning. No shoes allowed and

pants or some sort of leg covering was needed. I also got my first taste of the

people being obsessed with taking pictures of us foreigners with their

phones. Everybody has phones and are on them all the time.

I am usually timid to take pictures of strangers, but here in India

it seems they give you a silent (sometimes verbal) permission, they look at

you and keep looking (not always smiling) till you raise up your

camera and take an image, never looking away. Taking their portraits

really helped me feel more connected with the people of the different cities.

Humayun's Tomb

Isa Khan Niyazi's Tomb.

Bangla Sahib Gurudwara, Sikh Temple.